For her science project, given the choice of building a better mousetrap or reinventing the wheel, Teeny Tatmouse, the tatting mascot of Snowgoose Lacemaking, opted out for the latter. Wonder why!

Teeny Tatmouse calls the motif in which she utilizes her innovative technique a Catherine Wheel. Read her 'tail' and find out how to make these almost invisible joins.

SPLIT CHAIN TECHNIQUE:

This method of joining is a little more complicated than most 'shuttle' joins but tatters who are familiar with the Split Chain Technique should have no problem with this join.

REVOLUTIONARY JOINING TECHNIQUE:

This is also an innovative joining technique which can be used where previously a 'picot' join was made using the shuttle thread (i.e. pulling the shuttle thread through a picot below the chain being worked and inserting either the shuttle or ball thread into the shuttle-thread loop) where a lock join was not required.

Required:

Ball of thread and a shuttle with an inset hook or a shuttle and a separate hook (or two shuttles with one being used as the ball thread).

Method:

As when practising a new method or technique, it is advisable to do so with a thick thread, i.e. size 10 or 20. Wind shuttle from ball - DO NOT CUT THREAD BETWEEN. Or wind two shuttles DO NOT CUT THREAD BETWEEN.

When using the two shuttles, the shuttle holding the thread which is the 'core' thread (the one running through the double stitches) will be referred to as 'the shuttle' or 'shuttle thread' - this one does not require a lot of thread. The other shuttle will be the 'ball' or 'ball thread'.

STARTING THE CHAIN:

Position the ball thread over the left hand as you normally would to start a chain but form a loop to the left of the 'pinch' - large enough to insert the shuttle through.

Work five double stitches (ds). Bring the shuttle up through the loop then pull on the shuttle thread to form the chain just worked into a ring. Do not reverse this ring. Leave a very tiny space (picot) and continue in a clockwise direction making as many ds as will be required to get the chain around the ring to this point.

The shuttle thread, of course, is the core thread so to curve the chain, this is the thread to pull on - very slightly! The ds shouldn't be so close together that you can't get a hook between them.

THE CATHERINE WHEEL JOIN:

Release the ball thread from left hand - you may want to put a small rubber band around it to keep it from unrolling. Position the shuttle thread going towards the right so that it lies parallel to the thread of the tiny space.

From front to back, insert hook into this small space. Pull through a loop of the ball thread then insert the ball of thread down through this loop making sure it goes over the shuttle (core) thread as well as the space thread. Tighten up this stitch by pulling down on the ball thread and make sure this 'firsthalf' stitch is snug against the previous ds. At this stage the 'bar' will be at the bottom of the stitch but don't worry. It will straighten up.

Now insert hook into the same space from back to front. Once again pull through a loop of the ball thread and once again take the ball over the space thread and the shuttle (core) thread and insert ball of thread down through this loop and this time pull up on the ball thread. This will place the bar in the correct position. Snug this second half stitch right up against the first half.

Continue with the chain, always working in a clockwise direction and working this join between double stitches wherever you think it's necessary to maintain a nice firm coil whether a flat spiral (Catherine Wheel) or a cone shape is desired.

The shuttle thread is the core thread throughout.

Variegated thread size 10

Work a Catherine Wheel until it is half to three-quarters of an inch in diameter.

Chain 8 or 10 double stitches.

Work a Mock Ring for 7 or 8 ds.

Tie ends with a square knot then thread each end in a different direction through the center of the Mock Ring.

Clip ends to half inch.